BLUE TONGUE SKINKS

Alex park wrote:Hello everyone.

this is my first post in this group.

I've been take care my female shingleback skink ( Tiliqua aspera 2017 born ) .

And last week i've noticed that she's right eye s been closed.

Whenever she moving around she open and no issue.
But when she stay or stoped , she only close right eye only.

I've been treating her eye with cotton swab with eye drop for two days ( 1day 1 time ).
It maybe just 2days so no improved but i also do concern that it might be "over action" and harm to her.

<<< if this a fungal eye infection , adding water based eye drops can make the problem worse (I learnt this from first hand experience when I had itchy sore eyes (hay feaver).
What med are you currently using ?
was it prescribed by a reptile certified vet with experience with dry region skinks) ?

Can you tell us what you are using as the UV source ?
brand ?
type (compact coil ? t8 tube ? t5ho tube ? % uvb rating ? wattage ? distance from the skink at the basking spot ?

Can you tell what the substrate is ?
is it dusty ?
how often do you change it out ? (may be causing the eye problem though contact when scratching about)

She doesn't seems losing appetite on food and moving around as normal.

No crust on eye lid or mucus or any liquid from eye.
But just more frequently close one right eye.....

Should i wait until her next sheding? or visit Vet ?
I think a vet visit is prudent at this time , the longer you leave it the worse it will get and if it's an infection it could easily spread to the other eye .

I've already done one time for warm bath 10min give and takes, but no any further improved.

Please kindly help and let me know whether you guys have same symtoms with your blue or shingleback.

My enclosure set up
30~34'C maintained.
Humidity level 19~30 under.

Here i attached my shingleback's eye picture and her enclosures.

Thank you.
Have a good day.

kingofnobbys wrote:

Alex park wrote:Hello everyone.

this is my first post in this group.

I've been take care my female shingleback skink ( Tiliqua aspera 2017 born ) .

And last week i've noticed that she's right eye s been closed.

Whenever she moving around she open and no issue.
But when she stay or stoped , she only close right eye only.

I've been treating her eye with cotton swab with eye drop for two days ( 1day 1 time ).
It maybe just 2days so no improved but i also do concern that it might be "over action" and harm to her.

<<< if this a fungal eye infection , adding water based eye drops can make the problem worse (I learnt this from first hand experience when I had itchy sore eyes (hay feaver).
What med are you currently using ?
was it prescribed by a reptile certified vet with experience with dry region skinks) ?
[color=#BF0000]i'm using for eye drop for human since here i did research and many people use it to their pet such as bird and reptile but i shouldn't do, thank you. i won't use it anymore.
Can you tell us what you are using as the UV source ?
brand ?
type (compact coil ? t8 tube ? t5ho tube ? % uvb rating ? wattage ? distance from the skink at the basking spot ?

i'm using i'm using with exo-terra 150 25W bulb for UV sources and distance between bulb and shingles around 25~30cm.
Can you tell what the substrate is ?
is it dusty ?
substrate from Ox bow eco-straw ,and it's not dusty since 've chose this substrate for that concerns.
how often do you change it out ? (may be causing the eye problem though contact when scratching about)
[/color]
i scoop over whenever i found her waste and it's been3days only after i've removed original substrate that i took from former keeper's enclosures...i shouldn't do that...
She doesn't seems losing appetite on food and moving around as normal.

No crust on eye lid or mucus or any liquid from eye.
But just more frequently close one right eye.....

Should i wait until her next sheding? or visit Vet ?
I think a vet visit is prudent at this time , the longer you leave it the worse it will get and if it's an infection it could easily spread to the other eye .
ok i will arrange vet appointment , thank you for your detail comments.
I've already done one time for warm bath 10min give and takes, but no any further improved.

Please kindly help and let me know whether you guys have same symtoms with your blue or shingleback.

My enclosure set up
30~34'C maintained.
Humidity level 19~30 under.

Here i attached my shingleback's eye picture and her enclosures.

Thank you.
Have a good day.

i'm using i'm using with exo-terra 150 25W bulb for UV sources and distance between bulb and shingles around 25~30cm. I'd have to check "A Guide to Keeping Australian Skinks In Captivity by Brown" but I suspect the a 25W UVB150 is 10" away from the basking spot will NOT provide enough UVA and UVB for your shingleback .
I put this together to show the output of UVB for some common UVB sources :

About 70 - 80 microW UVB / sq.cm at 10" if you have the globe in reflector dome or nanohood. 1/2 that if it's a naked globe.

Can you tell what the substrate is ?
is it dusty ?
substrate from Ox bow eco-straw ,and it's not dusty since 've chose this substrate for that concerns. <<<< straw , like all grasses contains silica fibres that can be become an irritant , especially if the very fine silica fibres get under the eyelid.

how often do you change it out ? (may be causing the eye problem though contact when scratching about)

splashy07 wrote:In Australia many are kept outdoors. That is downright impossible in most other locations. I'm sure that has a lot to do with the success of keeping/breeding there.

10.2 Ease of Breeding
A successful propagation of Shingleback Lizards is well possible in captivity if the basic requirements of the animals are met (Hitz et al 2004, Watharow 2003, pers. obs.). One technique that has been successfully used with Shingleback Lizards is the introduction of an intruder male into the enclosure of a breeding pair. The male is only left in for a short time, under supervision to avoid injuries, and after his removal the remaining male will take a greater interest in his female (Hitz et al 2004). It may be possible to get the same results using only faeces or sloughed skin (Houston pers. comm.).

10.6 Timing of Breeding
Both male and female Shingleback Lizards require a simultaneous period of winter cooling or brumation of two to three months to synchronize breeding cycles (refer figure 10.1). During this time temperatures range should be NTL (night time low) to DTH (day time high), with a 3 week transitory period (Hitz et al 2004). The light cycle should also reflect the seasonal changes, being reduced from 14 hours light : 10 hours dark to 10 hours light : 14 hours dark (Houston pers. comm.).

splashy07 wrote:I have three Asperas, one of which has a similar issue. She is very old, at the very least 20 plus and has had this going on the entire time myself and her previous keeper had her. I originally thought the aspen substrate (previous keeper) was the issue as I've had dust problems with other BTs using that substrate. I put her on paper to see if it would resolve, but to this day she still keeps one eye closed for the first few minutes of waking then it opens slowly.
I'm at work now so won't see her wake up but next time I witness this I will post a picture. This seems to be more noticeable when a shed cycle is iminent.
Otherwise she is perfectly normal. Yours does not seem to show irritation but if it will put your mind at ease have her checked. Unfortunately there are not too many keepers to acquire info from, as they are again unfortunately so hard to obtain. The reptile vets over here seem to know less about them than those who keep them. Good luck, she's a sweetheart!