If all goes well, I’ll be picking up my new BTS tomorrow!
I do have a question though:
- Would it be a good idea to have a heat globe (without a red light) to keep the tank warm overnight?
Thanks!



Whnthsungoesdwn wrote:I don’t believe that heat is needed over night unless it gets unusually cold in your house.


Y33T wrote:Not to sound mean or anything but please do not use red lights. They can cause stress/agitation in reptiles because all they see is red and it can damage their eyes.

kingofnobbys wrote:Y33T wrote:Not to sound mean or anything but please do not use red lights. They can cause stress/agitation in reptiles because all they see is red and it can damage their eyes.
I agree --- the red "infrared" globe needs to go be tossed into the bin.
Any heat source that throws off visible light over night needs to be go. The light will disturb the skink's sleep.
If you are using red heat globe as the basking globe during the day , this is also not a good idea as BTs have excellent colour vision and they will tint everything an unnatural colour and make it harder for your skink to see it's food (ie greens will look black rather than green). A Philips par38 incandescent or a halogen spot globe of appropriate wattage is an excellent source of visible light and heat during the day. Plus the skink will think it is perpetually late dusk.
If the skink you have is a species indigenous to your location, no overnight heating is needed (except in winter or on the most frosty nights if it's a baby of a smaller juvenile).
If it gets very cold in the room where the viv is overnight, then a ceramic heat emitter (mushroom shaped globe) that gets hot but never emits visible light is a very good addition and can be run 24/7 if you have it on a dimming thermostat or the basking globe on a dimming thermostat & timer.
I'll also inject that the UVB tube is WAY TOO FAR AWAY even if it is a 12%UVB T5HO Arcadia to be effective WITHOUT A REFLECTOR behind it. If the luminaire is only a T8 or even a T10, then your skink WILL NEVER get enough UVA and UVB from even a 12%UVB T8 tube even with a slip on reflector behind it if your viv is 2ft tall.
I strongly recommend investing in a proper reflector hood for the UVB tube for your NBTS, upgrading to a T5HO 12% UVB or even a T5HO 14% UVB tube and ensuring the basking spot is no farther than 12 inches from the tube.
The new T5HO 12% or 14% UVB tube needs to positioned so one end of it is right next to the basking globe - this will ensure the skink gets maximum UV while basking. The tube length is about right/
Otherwise your skink will not get enough UVB to make enough natural VitD3 to be able to metabolise it's dietary calcium (sorry by VitD3 fortified calcium will never compensate) and it will develop MDB

Y33T wrote:Not to sound mean or anything but please do not use red lights. They can cause stress/agitation in reptiles because all they see is red and it can damage their eyes.

Angel_BTS wrote:kingofnobbys wrote:Y33T wrote:Not to sound mean or anything but please do not use red lights. They can cause stress/agitation in reptiles because all they see is red and it can damage their eyes.
I agree --- the red "infrared" globe needs to go be tossed into the bin.
Any heat source that throws off visible light over night needs to be go. The light will disturb the skink's sleep.
If you are using red heat globe as the basking globe during the day , this is also not a good idea as BTs have excellent colour vision and they will tint everything an unnatural colour and make it harder for your skink to see it's food (ie greens will look black rather than green). A Philips par38 incandescent or a halogen spot globe of appropriate wattage is an excellent source of visible light and heat during the day. Plus the skink will think it is perpetually late dusk.
If the skink you have is a species indigenous to your location, no overnight heating is needed (except in winter or on the most frosty nights if it's a baby of a smaller juvenile).
If it gets very cold in the room where the viv is overnight, then a ceramic heat emitter (mushroom shaped globe) that gets hot but never emits visible light is a very good addition and can be run 24/7 if you have it on a dimming thermostat or the basking globe on a dimming thermostat & timer.
I'll also inject that the UVB tube is WAY TOO FAR AWAY even if it is a 12%UVB T5HO Arcadia to be effective WITHOUT A REFLECTOR behind it. If the luminaire is only a T8 or even a T10, then your skink WILL NEVER get enough UVA and UVB from even a 12%UVB T8 tube even with a slip on reflector behind it if your viv is 2ft tall.
I strongly recommend investing in a proper reflector hood for the UVB tube for your NBTS, upgrading to a T5HO 12% UVB or even a T5HO 14% UVB tube and ensuring the basking spot is no farther than 12 inches from the tube.
The new T5HO 12% or 14% UVB tube needs to positioned so one end of it is right next to the basking globe - this will ensure the skink gets maximum UV while basking. The tube length is about right/
Otherwise your skink will not get enough UVB to make enough natural VitD3 to be able to metabolise it's dietary calcium (sorry by VitD3 fortified calcium will never compensate) and it will develop MDB
HiThank you for all of the helpful information - I am a relatively new reptile owner so I’m learning as I go along.
The UVB tube light that I am using is a repti glow, 18 watt, 150 UVB dessert terrarium light - pretty much the strongest one that is on the market, apart from the extreme heat one. I have added in more decor that will help my new BTS to be able to get closer to the basking lights, as well as the UVB light. Does 150 UVB sound alright? (Sorry, I’m not good with percentages)
Also, speaking of heat lights, I will be going to my local reptile store tomorrow to pick up my new lizard, and will purchase new lights that don’t emit a red glow. Thanks for letting me know that this isn’t good for Blueys

kingofnobbys wrote:Angel_BTS wrote:kingofnobbys wrote:
I agree --- the red "infrared" globe needs to go be tossed into the bin.
Any heat source that throws off visible light over night needs to be go. The light will disturb the skink's sleep.
If you are using red heat globe as the basking globe during the day , this is also not a good idea as BTs have excellent colour vision and they will tint everything an unnatural colour and make it harder for your skink to see it's food (ie greens will look black rather than green). A Philips par38 incandescent or a halogen spot globe of appropriate wattage is an excellent source of visible light and heat during the day. Plus the skink will think it is perpetually late dusk.
If the skink you have is a species indigenous to your location, no overnight heating is needed (except in winter or on the most frosty nights if it's a baby of a smaller juvenile).
If it gets very cold in the room where the viv is overnight, then a ceramic heat emitter (mushroom shaped globe) that gets hot but never emits visible light is a very good addition and can be run 24/7 if you have it on a dimming thermostat or the basking globe on a dimming thermostat & timer.
I'll also inject that the UVB tube is WAY TOO FAR AWAY even if it is a 12%UVB T5HO Arcadia to be effective WITHOUT A REFLECTOR behind it. If the luminaire is only a T8 or even a T10, then your skink WILL NEVER get enough UVA and UVB from even a 12%UVB T8 tube even with a slip on reflector behind it if your viv is 2ft tall.
I strongly recommend investing in a proper reflector hood for the UVB tube for your NBTS, upgrading to a T5HO 12% UVB or even a T5HO 14% UVB tube and ensuring the basking spot is no farther than 12 inches from the tube.
The new T5HO 12% or 14% UVB tube needs to positioned so one end of it is right next to the basking globe - this will ensure the skink gets maximum UV while basking. The tube length is about right/
Otherwise your skink will not get enough UVB to make enough natural VitD3 to be able to metabolise it's dietary calcium (sorry by VitD3 fortified calcium will never compensate) and it will develop MDB
HiThank you for all of the helpful information - I am a relatively new reptile owner so I’m learning as I go along.
The UVB tube light that I am using is a repti glow, 18 watt, 150 UVB dessert terrarium light - pretty much the strongest one that is on the market, apart from the extreme heat one. I have added in more decor that will help my new BTS to be able to get closer to the basking lights, as well as the UVB light. Does 150 UVB sound alright? (Sorry, I’m not good with percentages)
Also, speaking of heat lights, I will be going to my local reptile store tomorrow to pick up my new lizard, and will purchase new lights that don’t emit a red glow. Thanks for letting me know that this isn’t good for Blueys
UVB150 is a very weak compact UVB globe , even weaker if it's a 13W version. It only comes in 13W and 26W.
Your skink will literally have to ware the dome fixture or compact hood as a hat to enough UVA & UVB from even a 26W UVB150 (which is only rated at 5% UVB MAX).
In your viv , it will be way too far away from the skink even when basking to be help it stay healthy.
I believe Northerns require 10%UVB so again the 13W UVB150 wont be adequate and it will wind up suffering MBD.
I STRONGLY RECOMMEND at the very least upgrading to a 26W UVB200 (these are twice as powerful in UVA & UVB) and the skink will need to be able bask about 20cm from the 26W UVB200 if it's mounted in a reflector dome or nano-style reflector hood.
Even better is a 24W T5HO 12%UVB Arcadia tube mounted in a good reflector hood , and in this case the skink needs to be able bask inside 30cm of the 12% UVB tube .
More information see : https://www.beardeddragon.org/forums/vi ... 4&t=235611 graphs of UVB verses distance for some compacts and t8 and t5HO tubes .



Angel_BTS wrote:Once again, thank you for all of the info you’ve given me - I really appreciate it.
I am planning to use a 75 watt instense basking spot heat globe by exoterra. It’s an affordable price as I’ll be needing to purchase 4 - does it sound suitable?
Other than that, I will be purchasing a new UVB light for my Northern BTS enclosure, and I have found a pet store close the me that has a reflector that’s perfect for my Eastern BTS enclosure.
Thank you again for all your help.


Angel_BTS wrote:Sounds good! Was able to get the new globes and new UVB light today, as well as my new Northern BTS!
Thank you for taking the time to help me with lighting and heating




kingofnobbys wrote:Handsome boy.
Got him a bit older than I'd've , I got George and Mildred at about 2 months old and they were still small enough to curl up in my polo-shirt's pocket.
Keep the crickets and snails coming , silkworms are a great food for then too. Much better than mince or cat or dog food by a very long shot.
I'd be ditching the local pet shop and ordering in his live insects from
>>> Livefoods Unlimited (crickets, woodies, silkworms, BSFL)
>>> Aussie Fauna (silkworms)
>>> I've given up on Frog Arcade - they've had lots of live insect availability issues over the last 12 months - I used to buy superworms , mealworms and crickets from them for years).
>>> I'd hunt up on the yellow pages a local snail breeder (for edible live or fresh / frozen snails). I sometimes buy in a punnet of live French cooking snails for treats for my 2 big EBTS and they make very fast work of them.

kayla990 wrote:Gorgeous! Enjoy your new friendBeau looks very cute

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