BLUE TONGUE SKINKS

Hi guys. I'm new to the world of a BTS - now my "local" reptile shop said that I can use either a ceramic or a basking light, as all they really care for is the heat.

Having dug around online, I'm getting conflicting source. Some say without the light they develop SAD I get that cause working night shifts I was often down, until it was sunny ( not fun whilst trying to sleep )

Do blueys need to have a basking lamp? I only ask cause I can't use my pulse stat on it then, unless I want a disco effect

Also, what size would you use for a 5 foot by 2 foot deep and 18 inch tall viv? I have a 100w ceramic in my 2 foot viv and I can keep it at a constant 87F ( later learned it was too hot ) - haven't tried hotter cause I don't want to cook my snake!

I was thinking surely it would need to be a 150w at least ? just to give a good amount of heat throughout the viv

Please, by all means tell me if I'm wrong - Much rather be wrong and have a happy animal!!

Well that's the first time I've heard of mental health risk in a blue tongue lizard!

It's true that the heat is important to get right, so either ceramic or basking will do the trick. Ceramics are reliable and last well and give no light which is good if you need to provide night time heat for part of the year (eg if it gets really cold where you live or your BTS is very young).

The issue with light is that many keepers provide UVB light to prevent metabolic bone disease (MBD). So if you want to provide this (a good idea probably and it doesn't hurt) then you provide this no matter in addition, no matter whether you have a ceramic or basking light. However, diet is really important to prevent mbd too so you need to attend to both for a healthy BTS.

In terms of wattage, you use whatever watt will get you the right temperatures. You put the heat light just up one end of the enclosure and you should get around 100 Fahrenheit for a HOT spot with a gradual temp gradient down the enclosure to a cool end of, say, mid 70s. This will give enough heat for them to get to desired body temperature so they continue to eat well and can actually digest food (otherwise it rots in the stomach = bad) but a range enough so they can regulate their temp.

This is pretty much the principle for reptiles in general so I'm surprised you don't have a similar set up for your snake.

My snake does have a similar set up, just I wanted to confirm everything before I bought a ceramic bulb and needed a basking light

This is how I've planned the BTS set up - it seems fairly common sense to me, but I wanted to double and triple check.

What species BT are you getting ?

Some require less UVB than others , ie my Eastern BTs require 5% UVB and I get away very adequately with a 26W UVB150 compact (5% UVB) in an ExoTerra Nano Hood about 10 - 12 inches from their fav basking spots.
My skinks like to be able to get away from the UV source most the time , only basking under it when their bodies tell them they need the UVB and UVA.

Similarly some species of BTS require warmer basking spots than others too.

I live in NSW on the north coast (sub tropical coastal climate ) and it never gets colder than about 8oC outside (on the coldest winter nights) and I am in the natural range of the exact same species of BT so they have evolved over millions of years to live and thrive in my cimate.
I provide a par38 clear colourless incandescent as my BT's basking lights and have 7W heat pads under their hides for night time warmth on cooler nights.
My UVB and basking lights are on a simple household programmable timer, and their heatpads are controlled by simple switching thermostats.

In your situation in the UK , if it gets very cold inside your house I suggest
a basking globe (par38 clear colourless incandescent or equiv in a halogen)
a UVB source with proper rating in %UVB for your BTS
a CHE mounted near the sleeping spot run and controlled 24/7 via a simple switching thermostat to help keep the cool zone and warm zone temperatures at about the right levels during the day (by adding a little extra heat and to warm the viv overnight.

I'm hoping to get a Northern BTS - meant to be a "high orange" baby

I was told that a 12% UVB bulb should be right for him
The temps I've found the basking spot should be around 90-100F and the warm end around 85-90F - Still not 100% sure on the cool side - My source states 75-82F dropping to 70 at night
Then the UVB should be no more than 18" away from the floor and roughly 3/4s the length of the viv.
It gets cold here at night and my window is ALWAYS open at night. It drops to mid teens at the moment, as its summery, but usually is low teens or even single digits ( talking C not F )

I use a basic timer for my lights on the snake tank, they turn on at 7am then off at 7pm to give her a full day cycle - I'm assuming I can hook the UVB up to this to mimic the day?

RoflOnMyWaffle wrote:I'm hoping to get a Northern BTS - meant to be a "high orange" baby

I was told that a 12% UVB bulb should be right for him
The temps I've found the basking spot should be around 90-100F and the warm end around 85-90F - Still not 100% sure on the cool side - My source states 75-82F dropping to 70 at night
Then the UVB should be no more than 18" away from the floor and roughly 3/4s the length of the viv.
It gets cold here at night and my window is ALWAYS open at night. It drops to mid teens at the moment, as its summery, but usually is low teens or even single digits ( talking C not F )

I use a basic timer for my lights on the snake tank, they turn on at 7am then off at 7pm to give her a full day cycle - I'm assuming I can hook the UVB up to this to mimic the day?

Are you considering a T8 12% UVB tube or a T5 12% UVB tube ?
.... a T5 12% UVB tube will be pretty strong at 18 inches from the basking spot especially if the hood has a reflector builtin .

A good approach is to buy from a reputable breeder and ask them how they recommend you set up your temperatures,and the uvb source and placement .

I was going to go with a T5 tbh, seemed the better product to me.

I figured I'd go with a 36" in the 5 foot viv, keeps it a fair distance from his "cool side" - and most don't have reflectors that I saw in my local shops.

Seems safe to me

RoflOnMyWaffle wrote:I was going to go with a T5 tbh, seemed the better product to me.

I figured I'd go with a 36" in the 5 foot viv, keeps it a fair distance from his "cool side" - and most don't have reflectors that I saw in my local shops.

Seems safe to me

Here's a comparison for 12% UVB tubes as T8 and as T5 , comparing UV at various distances . http://www.arcadia-reptile.com/example/ and the effect of reflectors behind UVB tubes http://www.uvguide.co.uk/fluorescenttub ... rtests.htm

I'd suggest mounting a CHE and light at one end near (not against each other) and with the closest point of a CHE or incandescent light no closer than 2inches from any wall to prevent blueys sliding into it "when" they climb the walls. Cheers Scott