Lighting/Heat?

[Octopus]

Hi I am getting my first BTS later this year. I have been researching reptile care sheets in general for 6 months to see what reptile would be suitable for me but I have been researching BTS for almost 2 months (so I know some things lol ).
I have not been able to find a good lighting/heating plan.
I was wondering if anyone has a good lighting and heat setup that they could share so I can get started.

Thanks All.

[skeetersmom]

Welcome to the forum! Very nice to see someone taking the time to research animals before purchasing! I have had my bluey for only a few months - and have been totally entranced...

Have you checked out the caresheet? Don't want you to think you can't ask questions here - but the care sheet is awsome.

My enclosure (which is 6' long, 18" wide, and 20" tall has a home made top made out of 1/4" plywood. There are three pieces, two of which have holes cut out for the light and heat domes. Right now, I am using a UV light, because I thought it would be better; however still considering using a regular light when that one burnes out. There seems to be different opinions whether UV is necessary. For heat, I use a heat lamp that is directed on a basking rock (definately not a heat rock - those things are dangerous). The basking rock area (I put a digital thermo probe right on the rock) is at 90 degrees F. The light supply is on one side of the enclosure, and the heat is on the other.

Being the wonderful creatures that they are - you can't really say "they will stay on the warm side" or the opposite - each bluey will choose if they prefer to stay warm all the time, or cool. But they do need the warmth especially after eating. My guy loves spending most of his time (now anyways) sleeping on his basking rock. The basking rock also doubles as one of his hides - he has another on the other end of the enclosure.

Hope that helps - and of course, if I have made a mistake, I know someone will correct me

[skeetersmom]

Just wondering what type of BTS you are looking to get...and how old. Mine is an I.J. (was told it was a Common Eastern, but most pet shops don't know the difference)

[Alioop]

Your options for heat are: Red Basking Light, Regular Basking Light, Ceramic Heat Emitter, Heat pad, Heat tape, Heat cable, Radiant heat panel.

You can choose to provide UV lighting or not. Multiple long-time breeders have proven that it is not necessary to provide UV as long as you are supplementing with Calcium and D3. If you do use a UV light, you still should be supplementing with the Calcium and D3.

So, choose whatever option works best for you for heating. If you choose a method other than the regular basking light, then you also need to provide some form of light so your skink gets a sense of night and day. If you choose the regular basking light, then you also need to have a heating option for night time, because, depending on the species, the temp in the cage should never get below 68-70 degrees F (unless you are brumating for the purpose of breeding).

I'll tell you what I'm using these days:

My IJ is in a 40 breeder tank. I've got flexwatt heat tape under his basking spot and its adjusted to about 80 degrees. Above the basking spot I also have a halogen spot light (ie- cheaper version of a basking bulb!), the two combined give me a basking spot of 100 degrees. The light goes off at night, and the heat tape always stays on so I don't have to worry about it getting too cold for him at night. The cool side is in the mid 70s during the day, probably drops below 70 at night, but he always has a warm spot at night also.

My 3 Easterns are in plastic tubs that are about the same size as the 40 breeder. They have the same set up: heat tape on the bottom, attached to a dimmer, and for daylight and a little added warmth: halogen spotlights.

If I could, I would have a thermostat attached to the heat tape to regulate the temps even more accurately, but for now this systems is working really well for me.

[Octopus]

Your options for heat are: Red Basking Light, Regular Basking Light, Ceramic Heat Emitter, Heat pad, Heat tape, Heat cable, Radiant heat panel.

You can choose to provide UV lighting or not. Multiple long-time breeders have proven that it is not necessary to provide UV as long as you are supplementing with Calcium and D3. If you do use a UV light, you still should be supplementing with the Calcium and D3.

So, choose whatever option works best for you for heating. If you choose a method other than the regular basking light, then you also need to provide some form of light so your skink gets a sense of night and day. If you choose the regular basking light, then you also need to have a heating option for night time, because, depending on the species, the temp in the cage should never get below 68-70 degrees F (unless you are brumating for the purpose of breeding).

I'll tell you what I'm using these days:

My IJ is in a 40 breeder tank. I've got flexwatt heat tape under his basking spot and its adjusted to about 80 degrees. Above the basking spot I also have a halogen spot light (ie- cheaper version of a basking bulb!), the two combined give me a basking spot of 100 degrees. The light goes off at night, and the heat tape always stays on so I don't have to worry about it getting too cold for him at night. The cool side is in the mid 70s during the day, probably drops below 70 at night, but he always has a warm spot at night also.

How does heat tape work(how do you adjust the temp)?
Do BTS need UV lights(I have read that they do and don't)?
How hot does it keep the cool end of the tank?

Just wondering what type of BTS you are looking to get...and how old. Mine is an I.J. (was told it was a Common Eastern, but most pet shops don't know the difference)

I don't know yet what type of BTS I'm getting or how old, I'm just doing the research so that I'm prepared when I get one.

:btsnet:

Welcome to the forum! Very nice to see someone taking the time to research animals before purchasing! I have had my bluey for only a few months - and have been totally entranced...

Have you checked out the caresheet? Don't want you to think you can't ask questions here - but the care sheet is awsome.

My enclosure (which is 6' long, 18" wide, and 20" tall has a home made top made out of 1/4" plywood. There are three pieces, two of which have holes cut out for the light and heat domes. Right now, I am using a UV light, because I thought it would be better; however still considering using a regular light when that one burnes out. There seems to be different opinions whether UV is necessary. For heat, I use a heat lamp that is directed on a basking rock (definately not a heat rock - those things are dangerous). The basking rock area (I put a digital thermo probe right on the rock) is at 90 degrees F. The light supply is on one side of the enclosure, and the heat is on the other.

Thanks!
I have read the entire care sheet (except the part about breeding).
Like I asked before is it necessary to use UV lighting.

[Richard.C]

hi mate,welcome to the forum,no it isnt nessacary to use uv lighting for blueys,doesnt hurt them to use it either though,with or with out it,dietry supplementation with calcium vitamin d3 is of way more benifit

there may be benefits to using uv lighting,but by them selves they wont help cover poor diet and lack of supplementation

temps wise,cool end is generally what your room temp is,it varies depending where u keep your enclosure,what part of the world u live in ect ect,but if cold,as long as they have a good gradient,with a lot of area to move around in temp wise thats no biggy,aim is to provide a good basking spot temp that allows them to maintain there preffered body temp,but also cool down a smidgen to,which is a plus of a large temp gradient,gives them the option of moving where they want to,preferably u dont want to heat the cool end,back ground temps change all the time,and if cold,covers you during hot spells allowing somewhere to get away from the heat if they desire

[Edward]

[Rachael t]

I firmly believe that natural sunlight is important for all our reptile friends. My set up is probably very different to most people's. We built a large wooden cage, up at table height and out it on wheels before I got Lizzie. My two mainly live outside as they are native species to the area. At the moment they have an Exo Terra brand 100w heat light as it is getting onto winter and Lizzie is prone to chest infections. I personally love this heat lamp and is all the artificial heat or light I use.

They are a bit spoilt at the moment and sleep inside on hot water bottles, snuggled up under a blanket in a cat cage! Haha

[KellyandLindsey]

welcome to BTS web site

[Alioop]

Your options for heat are: Red Basking Light, Regular Basking Light, Ceramic Heat Emitter, Heat pad, Heat tape, Heat cable, Radiant heat panel.

You can choose to provide UV lighting or not. Multiple long-time breeders have proven that it is not necessary to provide UV as long as you are supplementing with Calcium and D3. If you do use a UV light, you still should be supplementing with the Calcium and D3.

So, choose whatever option works best for you for heating. If you choose a method other than the regular basking light, then you also need to provide some form of light so your skink gets a sense of night and day. If you choose the regular basking light, then you also need to have a heating option for night time, because, depending on the species, the temp in the cage should never get below 68-70 degrees F (unless you are brumating for the purpose of breeding).

I'll tell you what I'm using these days:

My IJ is in a 40 breeder tank. I've got flexwatt heat tape under his basking spot and its adjusted to about 80 degrees. Above the basking spot I also have a halogen spot light (ie- cheaper version of a basking bulb!), the two combined give me a basking spot of 100 degrees. The light goes off at night, and the heat tape always stays on so I don't have to worry about it getting too cold for him at night. The cool side is in the mid 70s during the day, probably drops below 70 at night, but he always has a warm spot at night also.

How does heat tape work(how do you adjust the temp)?
Do BTS need UV lights(I have read that they do and don't)?
How hot does it keep the cool end of the tank?

Please see the text in red for the answer to your UV question.

Heat tape MUST be connected to either a dimmer or a thermostat, or else it will get hot enough to start fires and injure animals. For now I am just using dimmers, but a thermostat is MUCH safer and more efficient.

No one can tell you the exact temps your cage will be with these different heating methods. Cage temps will vary quite a bit depending on the type of cage, its location in your house, how warm your house is, and what the climate is where you live. This is why it is HIGHLY recommended that you set up the tank before bringing a bts home so you can figure out how to get the optimum temps in your enclosure.

[Octopus]

Thanks all!
so heat tape or mat on the bottom of the tank and a heat lamp or some kind of UV light that gives of heat is my best bet?
And one question of topic: Do BTS have to brumate?

[Nae]

Welcome!

To be honest there is no 'best bet' - Just what works and what doesnt for you specifically . I personally have a ceramic heat emitter. This is connect to a thermostat that keeps it at about 34c on the hotside during the day, and at night doesnt let the temp drop below 22c. My lighting is then 2 of those swirly energy saving globes on both ends, that are then connected to the same thermostat but are on a timer so they come on in the morning, off at night. I find this set up works perfectly for me, as for one I like to know *exactly* how things work - I didnt like the idea of requiring an electrician to wire things up, it may have costed a considerable amount more, but going with
"plug and play" stuff was something I just felt more confident with~ Trust me, it took a while for me to wrap my head around as well! But once I got the initial set up going, I changed it here and there, and now its perfect.

And nope, brumation isnt necessary unless you want to breed

[Spindown]

I am personally converting to CHE's (ceramic Heat Emitters). No hassle with turning on and off at night and morning because there is no light produced, and they are supposed to last for ages! They also put out more heat then regular lightbulbs do. They are harder to break, which is a plus for my accident prone self

They can be a bit expensive, and you do have to find a fixture that is rated for whatever wattage your CHE is and be OK for ceramic heat output, but thats not too hard these days.

In the future all my guys will be on thermostats instead of dimmer switches, but you have to have SOMETHING to control that heat output, and a way to protect your skink from touching the CHE itself. those things get HOT!!!

And nope, brumation isnt necessary unless you want to breed

This is totally true, but I thought I'd point out...sometimes they do it anyways, whether your have changed your setup/lighting/heating/day light cycle...or not. It just depends on the skink, none of my parameters changed except the daylight outside the window got shorter with winter, and bam! 2 brumated, while the others didnt. Brumation doesnt have to be a bad thing, it does give you a bit of a break while they are passed out, but I found I started to miss them while they were asleep, and was SO happy when they woke up again!

[Octopus]

Welcome!

To be honest there is no 'best bet' - Just what works and what doesnt for you specifically . I personally have a ceramic heat emitter. This is connect to a thermostat that keeps it at about 34c on the hotside during the day, and at night doesnt let the temp drop below 22c. My lighting is then 2 of those swirly energy saving globes on both ends, that are then connected to the same thermostat but are on a timer so they come on in the morning, off at night. I find this set up works perfectly for me, as for one I like to know *exactly* how things work - I didnt like the idea of requiring an electrician to wire things up, it may have costed a considerable amount more, but going with
"plug and play" stuff was something I just felt more confident with~ Trust me, it took a while for me to wrap my head around as well! But once I got the initial set up going, I changed it here and there, and now its perfect.

And nope, brumation isnt necessary unless you want to breed

Thanks! (I don't want to breed lol)
I have read that CHE work pretty well but do they have different watts and if they do what is the best watt for a 48"x18'x18" tank? Would I need an under the tank heater to? And do those energy saving bulbs give of heat?

P.S. Sorry I'm asking so many questions, I just want to be prepared.

[Nae]

I agree with Sapphire - One of my favourite things about CHE is that they emit no light - And thus can turn on and off without any blinking lights! I had a python, and his tank going from light to dafk to light annoyed me so much, plus Im sure he didnt like it either. I definitely think their price is worth it.

My tank is about that size, and does perfectly fine with an 100w, keeping in mind mine is positioned differently then most - That is, not in a corner or almost direstly next to a side. I divided my tank into 3, and placed it in between 2 of the thirds, if that makes sense?? So basically off to the side, but not quite I just find that it allows the heat to spread further~

I personally do not use an UTH, but many do if they find they need additional night heat, I dont know much more about them then that Im afraid!

The energy saving bulbs give off very little heat - You can only really feel it if your skin is about a cm from it~

Dont worry about the questions, nothing wrong with preparation!

[critterguy]

I probably do things a bit differently from most folk. After talking to various people I use undertank heat-heating pads for the warm side. These are best used with a rheostat, if not a thermostat. These are probably the most energy efficient way to provide heat(though it is belly heat). Ambient light/light from flourescents provides the light...so no actual basking bulb. I do bring my skinks outside frequently but this is as much for my enjoyment as for them. If you have very cold temperatures in the house and you need to raise the actual ambient temperature in the cage pads are not very efficient in doing this.

Make sure to do your research on each type of heating to determine what works best for your situation. You do not want to create fire risks or harm your reptile.

[skeetersmom]

I don't use UTH either - the basking rock takes care of that. I use a red bulb for heat - reptiles don't see red - so I keep it on all the time when the weather is cold/cool (being in WI - that is most of the year). The "energy saving" bulbs don't give off much heat - and probably would not heat the rock up to 90 degrees. But they can be used insteat of the UV bulb for light - 12 hrs off, 12 hrs on.

[Spindown]

actually, some reptiles can see red just fine. Many types of reptiles have waaaay more types of things in their eyes and can see in MANY more wavelengths than we can. However, red light is apparently easier on the eyes and less harsh for those species that CAN see the red. I am unsure if blueys fall into this category. I'm trying to find more info on it, I just remember thats what our reptile vet told us at one of our local herp meetings. I am also finding pieces of this info online in different places.

I'd be concerned about using a UTH just because if they cant feel burns from a heat-rock, how would they feel a burn from a UTH? I guess it would be a little different because the UTH is probably under some substrate, but they do overheat easily, and I even hate using them with my snakes...

Another option are the newer Radiant Heat Panels.
I'm Definitely considering doing this for my custom caging. If i dont use these then there will be CHE's in them. Some of the GTP breeders I know SWEAR by these!
----- a blurb from this website about RHP: http://www.reptilebasics.com/radiant-panel-faq
--------
How does this thing work? Why is it better than other methods of heating?

RHP's are similar to Ceramic Heat Emitters (CHE) - they both project IR heat into the cage. Unlike CHE's that get very, very hot on their surface, these RHP's maintain temperatures safe to use inside the cage. This Infrared Heat tends to heat objects more than the air, much like the natural sunlight outdoors. This type of heat mimics real sunlight both in the direction it comes from and its penetration into the muscle tissue. IR heat has been shown to have a therapeutic effect on sick and injured animals as well. Your reptiles will spend less time basking and receive a much greater benefit from it. The RHP has been the heat of choice for the bird community for years due to these benefits. We at Reptile Basics Inc want to see the RHP gain this popularity in the reptile field!

Unlike CHE's, the surface temperature of the Reptile Basics RHP is not hot enough to instantly burn you! At full power our RHP will reach approximately 190 degrees on the lens surface. While this temperature sounds very, very high- you can hold your hand on it for 10 seconds or more without getting burned. I have done it myself and so have several of my human guinea pigs. When installed properly it would be nearly impossible for your reptile to stay on the heat for even that long. At worst the animal may bump into the panel while exploring the cage. If your RHP is properly set up on a thermostat you will not generally see even these temperatures. Our tests of three other RHP manufacturers products show very similar, sometime greater, surface temps. A higher surface temperature will project the heat farther BUT it is a trade off on burn safety. We carefully tweaked our wattage density of the custom manufactured element to get a safe compromise between surface temps and effective range.

[skeetersmom]

This is what I love about this forum. It is very active - and you learn SO much. I have had reptiles (mostly snakes) on and off for years (right now, I am definately on) - and have always been told that they can't see red. But it makes sense - it is better to have a digital clock in your bedroom that displays red - not as intrusive to the eyes when you wake up at 2 am and see the numbers.

Now I will need to rethink my heating technique

[Spindown]

If they aren't acting all psycho when the red lights come on, you are fine
Lots of people have used red lights with success. I wouldnt change your technique unless you notice its causing issues, hurting their eyes, hurting YOUR eyes, or changing behaviors.
However, if you want to change your heating methods because you found a better one, go for it! I just wouldn't worry unduly.

Example: Green glowy axolotls (GFP) HATE HATE HATE uv light (black lights). I've seen it for myself. The second that light is shined near them or on them, they go into violent convulsions to get away from it, bashing into walls, thrashing around until that light is taken away. However, I have been told by a breeder of GFP's that blue LED lights will produce the glow from their cells but not drive them into a frenzy. I'm sure they can still see it, or sense a light source, but they dont flip out like they do with UV.