Thoughts on how to best tame a bluey

[Katrina]

This came up in another thread, but rather than further hijack that thread I thought I would start a separate discussion on this. Obviously there are many, many methods for taming a bluey and it varies a lot depending on the species, age, history etc.

What does everyone think?

I really believe that a bluey should always be offered a means of hiding (even if it is just enough substrate to burrow in). Even if they are hiding all the time, I don't think the extra stress is worth taking the hide away. They need to hide to feel safe and secure and not like a sitting duck. For taming, I have found that all of my skinks have been curious and very interested in food. So I haven't had issues taming them, although some do hide for days on end and some are skittish and not very comfortable being held. Sometimes it takes a very long time and sometimes a BTS will never be very tame, but I guess that is just part of getting an older, possibly wild caught animal. I really think that if someone wants a pet that will be handled a lot and be tame, they should get a captive bred one.

I know that the caresheet recommends possibly taking away hides or putting them in a noisy, high traffic area. I partially agree with this, with the case of young babies - putting them in high traffic areas will get them used to noise. I don't really agree with taking away hides, and I think doing this to a wild caught adult would be cruel... especially taking away hides. Just my thoughts. I haven't had any issues getting a BTS to tolerate me and not be scared of me / hang out in the open kind of thing although I admittedly haven't dealt with any species other than Merauke or Northern. All of mine come out regularly and tolerate handling and will come up to me to see if I have food.

What does everyone else think? What is the best way to tame a bluey? Is taking away hides a good option?

[Fatal_S]

Best option is get a couple more skinks. Then it doesn't matter if one wants to hide. Having so many has really changed how I interact with the skinks.

First off, I prefer giving my skinks hides and cover and substrate because I see a big behaviour benefit. They stop trying to constantly escape, and they become more secure in their tank. However they also become more cage-defensive, but I've just learned to accept that and work around it.

I believe keeping the babies in high-traffic areas is a huge help. However there is a limit to how much they can handle. Our baby skinks did great being in the kitchen and getting played with by family, and going out to play with the neighborhood kids. But when it came to the 2 day expo the 1 month-old skinks got way too stressed out (the 2 m/o skinks were alright though). So lots of activity is great, but starting slowly and building up.

My biggest success has been with handling the skinks in a consistent manner (signal and then pick up, holding the same way every time) and handling them when they want to be active and exploring (they're scratching to come out or staring at me).

And again, because I have more than 1 I can leave the ones who don't like being handled alone for the most part. The more I leave them alone, the more secure they feel about coming out of hiding. It takes a long time for those ones, but it doesn't bug me because I can cuddle others while I wait.

[Nae]

Hmmm...Im not entirely sure, considering my only experience is with wild ones, and only once had I tried to tame one (Mazi), and that was so long ago I dont even remember, all I do remember is that I was quiet successful as he was the sweetest little guy <3

Although one things Ill add is correct handling. Handling a bluey so as then it feels safe and secure allows it to be comfortable, and to be able to focus on you and not on whether its going to fall. Correct handling imo involves not only supporting the body, but where you hold it - For example many dont like their legs and tails - so dont touch there. If its still nervous handle whilst sitting or over a table, so the ground isnt as far.Handling is just one thing Ive noticed that seems to make or break whether or not a bts is friendly at times, especially when not tame. Hence the reason I can pick the wild ones up and have them still and fairly comfortable within minutes, yet some people couldnt even hold darling Mazi without him freaking.

[Katrina]

Good answer, Fatal. We are both lucky that we have multiple skinks and some are always up.

I have also found that it definitely helps to leave the ones who don't want to come out alone... they do get more curious and feel more secure after time and feel safer about coming out and checking things out. Not a great option when you only have one... but works great if you can wait. And letting them know that you are going to pick them up / being consistent is also great advice.

[A.VinczeBTs]

Is question gets asked a lot, and I'm also new and wanted to know this! Since my little itty-bitty-northern is going to be with me soo, I'd love to know how to get him to be tame (he was very huffy at the store, very tense and scared). Of course I would leave him alone for a while to get used to his new home, but after that...

Great advice so far, hope this thread stays current and updated!!

[Kbell31]

I like this thread. I agree that taking away hides seems excessive and a bit cruel. I would imagine that would make an animal more defensive and anxious with a feeling it would constantly have to be on alert. My Merauke was most likely not CB and was in a small space at the petstore for nearly a year, without being handled regularly. It did however have the benefit of being exposed to noises, people tapping on the cage etc. I observed it for about 3 months before I actually bought it. I handled it 3 times while there. It was never hissy or agitated despite the lack of physical contact with people. This gives me the impression skinks are just like people, some are inherently friendly and some just have bad attitudes despite their circumstances. When I got it home, it explored right away and ate well. I was extremely worried about my dog's excessive barking and thought that would totally stress out the skink. For the first week if my dog barked it would scurry under its hide. What if I had taken that hide away? Would it have made a more tameable skink? I doubt it. Now a couple months later it is alert to the barking but does not run off to hide even though it is available to her. I have been recently getting into a routine and I think it is really working out. After feeding, the skink will relieve itself. After that I can take it out and we hang out on the couch for about an hour or two. I made her a plush pouch out of an old scarf and she will burrow in it and just lay peeking her head out after shes done exploring. She actually fell asleep last night on me in her pouch for the first time. Sorry for rambling, but my two cents would be: leave the hides in place, be patient and allow the extra sensitive ones to come out on their own time and have frequent, positive but short interactions with them. Also I agree on the correct handling. Nothing is as unnerving watching a skink flop and twist about bc it feels insecure. Geeshh, my fingers hurt from typing this thesis.

[655321]

I think an important thing is to not be scared. My skink doesn't mind being held but he hates being picked up. Once I have him on my chest or my lap he's fine but while I'm lifting and moving him he's very unhappy. Of course I hold him with two hands or rest most of his body on my arm, but it doesn't matter, he hates it. I used to hesitate when I went to pick him up and he would hiss at me. Once I realized he wasn't going to bite me, I relaxed. Then I realized if I just get the icky part of picking him over with quickly (and safely) he's just fine! My friend was over a few days ago and wanted to hold him and she kept hesitating so of course he kept hissing at her which got her more scared that he was going to bite her. I kept assuring her that he wasn't going to but she just got more and more scared each time he hissed. So we left him alone for a little while to calm down and then I picked him and sat him in her lap and he was just fine. Another friend of mine has a skink and she told me when she first got hers she kept thinking that if it hissed it was going to bite her and eventually because she kept hesitating each time she went to pick it up it did bite her. You kind of have to just go for it.

I've also read a lot of stories of people who had skinks that hid a lot but they were eager to hold them so instead of waiting for their skink to come out they would pick up the hide and then pick up the skink and get bitten. You have to respect animals the same way you respect humans. Would you want someone to pick you up while you're sleeping? Of course not. I always wait for my skink to be out and active to hold him.

[JR]

I think an important thing is to not be scared. My skink doesn't mind being held but he hates being picked up. Once I have him on my chest or my lap he's fine but while I'm lifting and moving him he's very unhappy. Of course I hold him with two hands or rest most of his body on my arm, but it doesn't matter, he hates it. I used to hesitate when I went to pick him up and he would hiss at me. Once I realized he wasn't going to bite me, I relaxed. Then I realized if I just get the icky part of picking him over with quickly (and safely) he's just fine!

Agreed. My Tanny is just the same.

Even if he's wiggling and flailing his tail around when I pick him, I remain calm and confident about what I'm doing. I think that's the big secret

And, he's dog-tame, and still is scared of sudden movement. So I just move slowly and carefully when handling him. Otherwise my family can move around as usual before his terrarium - he's hardly bothered about it.

Oh, and when he's active and I put my hand there, he just climbs on it and seems to wait me to pick him up! LOL

[Lauriek]

Food helps. Especially cooked chicken (or Xmas turkey in Leabilby's case !! ). But also being where they can see you. I first had Bliss's cage inside, just near the entrance to the kitchen. She would come out and look and the goings on in the house. She's still quite feisty and needs a confident handler to pick her up. The view of the kitchen and us walking in and out made a difference. Barnum, who was quite nasty when I got her, has us walking past her viv all the time. She looks at us, tongue flicking when she's hungry. She's a very confident skink and not vicious at all now. She uses her mouth much more than the others to explore her environment. My experience says they like to see what's going on, but also like to be able to scurry into a hide. I don't handle mine every day, but this being able to see what's going on around them seems to have made them calmer. Now having experience with blotchie babies, I can say each develop a personality very quickly. I've got one who's very feisty, and two who run away very quickly. But they don't mind being handled. Bailey doesn't seem to like it so I don't handle him as much.
I also believe being handled correctly from a baby is very important but there's a fine line from being handled enough to too much, which stresses them. They are not a cuddly, huggy animal, which is something some new bts owners believe them to be. And I also believe that when you new to bts, you need to be confident with them. Even our skinks can sense when we're tentative.

[Lea]

Handling, like everyone has said, is one of the biggest ways to tame them. The more interaction, the less the shock and surprise each time you go near them. Every day, more than once a day, so they don't forget the time before, if you can do it.

I have found that getting on the same level as them is a great way of interacting and reducing fear, Sitting them on the floor or a flat, large and level surface, not in full sun and with ambient noise to a minimum. Lying down and being at their level and just nudging food towards them with your fingers. Not necessarily touching or holding them either, just letting them know you are there, perhaps lying your hands flat in front of them so they can see them, but not feel threatened by them. Moving your hand closer, then lifting it a little to touch their back, near to the front, but not directly from above, just a small but firm stroke down their flank. This will be more for progressing to handling. but it's good to do when they are distracted with some food in their mouth. I can move most of my lizards with a sideways shuffle by gentle lifting them a few inches to the side of where they are eating: they know I pose no threat to them and I am not after their food, so I don't have objections.

I also talk to my lizards as I approach. It's my way of a greeting, but lets them know I am coming towards them. One or two still hide, but those I've had a while will usually look up expectantly for a tasty morsel! Food is a big winner, I think.

Remembering how BIG we are is probably my most important tip. Even once they get to trust us, your big looming shadow is always going to spook them once in a while! Even my tamest and calmest have had a wild tongue-flaring moment, on rare occasion! They will always try to defend and protect themselves, it's instinct, like our own fear and other innate responses.

A lot of patience and respect and some effort, will always pay off.

[ShortStack]

My little guy was super huffy and puffy when I first got him. He never tried to nip, but would huff and puff at me and try to get away. I was so afraid he would get away as tiny and quick as he was, so I was really hesitant about handling him at first. People kept telling me to just give him time, handle him consistantly, and do it in a place where if he DID make a break for it, he would be easy to contain. Within just a few weeks he calmed down a lot. I handled him for just a little bit every evening, and over time I held him more and more. I can now take him out and he will chill for hours. When he gets restless I put him up and he usually naps. It works for us. I definitely agree that consistant handling is helpful.

He is also in our living room, which is a very high traffic area. He is on the bottom of an iron stand with my dad's beardie on top, so he is eye level with our dogs. At first he was in a smaller tank on a higher area because the dogs went nuts seeing him and it seemed to stress him out, too. Once he got a little bigger and I got a bigger tank, I moved him down to the bottom of the other stand, and he seems fine. The dogs are used to seeing him out and hardly pay him any attention and he couldn't care less about them. He's also used to the t.v., 6 people living in the house, and hearing my sister's parakeets.

I can't see myself ever taking him subtrate or hide because he loves to hide and burrow. I think it would make him even more anxious. I also never wake him to take him out or pull him out of his hide or from burrowing. Like someone else already mentioned, how would you like to be pulled out of your bed asleep? I would be grumpy, too. When he's out and about and active, that's when I get him out. He will also come to the front of the tank like, Hey hey look at me! Hold meeee!

[El Lobo]

A lot of patience and respect and some effort, will always pay off.

That is the key.

[Richard.C]

i dont always handle mine,alot are super tame,theres a few that are fiesty,but i find once in hand they settle,generally,try not to be scared of them,and handle them gently,they soon learn you arent a threat,well in general,i have one blotch that contsantly dislpays at me,even when picked up,its there natural instinct though,to display when they feel threatened,when they learn you are there to feed and care for them,most will settle down but there are always exceptions

[Dragon Tamer]

It took a lot of time and patience for me to tame Devonine, and he's still not perfectly tame. He likes to go slow, hates being snuck up on, and likes me to allow him to go where he pleases, which is usually in a warm spot, like in the crook of my arm. If I go slow and be gentle and quiet, sometimes he'll sit on my lap for a while. It took maybe 2 months to get to that point, and I never rushed him. He always acts huffy when I first lift him, but with gentle persistance he settles right down.

[Dragon Tamer]

Also I forgot to mention, he's got one of those hollowed half logs in his cage, big enough for him to curl up under, and he couldn't be without it. Any time he's not sunning himself under the lamp, he's under his log. I try not to bother him when he's in there, as he feels it's his little safe haven and I don't want to ruin that for him.