Radiant heat panel vs ceramic heat emitter vs heat tape?

[Kurt]

I'm looking to get a new tank so I can grow my collection and want to figure out the heat source before I buy a new tank.

I've been looking into more consistent heating options (using a thermostat/rheostat) since light bulbs are hard to raise/lower temps as seasons change. I've been doing a little research but its hard to find lizard keepers that use these type of heat sources- seems that most lizard keepers use lights and most snake keepers use heat tape or radiant heat panels.

I'm mostly interested in Radiant heat panels because of what I've read about their safety (reptiles won't burn themselves and they don't cause fires). Does anyone here use radiant heat panels? They are expensive, plus I would have to purchase a thermostat/rheostat so I want to know that it would be worth it...

Also, if anyone uses heat tape or ceramic heat emitters can you comment on their ability to keep consistent heat gradient and a nice basking spot between 95-100?

Thank you.

[jdheff1982]

Radiant heat panels? Are you referring to under tank heaters? If so, reptiles can burn themselves on unregulated panels. Even if the panel is in line with a thermostat, if the probe is too far away from the panel, it will get much hotter than the desired temp until the probe senses it and shuts it off.

I have used both UTH and ceramic heater emitters in conjunction with one another. Before I relocated my corn snake, I used both heater types for his basking area. Since the move, I use strictly a UTH for his plastic tub.

When I first setup the BTS enclosure, I used strictly a 100w ceramic emitter. It got the temps I needed; however, I got tired of seeing a dark dome over the enclosure. So, I replaced the emitter with 2 65w flood lights. Temps now hover closer to 90 to 100 degree range rather than the 105 the ceramic would produce. The basking area has a sloped piece of slate with the higher end having the higher temps and the lower end seeing the lower end of the basking temps.

Results from any heat source will vary based on the surfaces the basking spot has. For example, items made of stone/brick/concrete will heat much better than most any other material used. So, someone using stone/brick/concrete as a basking surface may get away with using lower wattage heat sources to achieve proper basking temps.

IMO, a keeper should use whatever heat they want as long as the proper basking temps are being achieved for a healthy animal.

PS: Heat tape is more commonly used for snake racks than individual enclosures.

[donkeybuff]

Radiant heat panels are not UTHs. IMO, it is better to use a bulb as the primary heat source. The CHE, heat tape, or heat panel should be used as supplemental heat. People have used these as primary heat sources, but I feel that it is simpler and more natural to use a bulb. I think that both CHEs and heat tape would be acceptable sources of supplemental heat in conjuction with a thermostat. Radiant heat panels sound great, but I don't think they're worth the money if you're using them for supplemental heat.

[jdheff1982]

Radiant heat panels are not UTHs. IMO, it is better to use a bulb as the primary heat source. The CHE, heat tape, or heat panel should be used as supplemental heat. People have used these as primary heat sources, but I feel that it is simpler and more natural to use a bulb. I think that both CHEs and heat tape would be acceptable sources of supplemental heat in conjunction with a thermostat. Radiant heat panels sound great, but I don't think they're worth the money if you're using them for supplemental heat.

I agree. I noticed a huge difference when I switched from a CHE to the flood lights. What was the difference? My BTS was out basking more than before. I think they know light means heat, IMO.

[Dakota]

It is more natural for them to roam hundreds of square feet in the wild a day, but we only put them in a 4' box. I have found people are just as successful with UTH vs. Heating bulbs, you just don't quite see them as often. I know someone that is an ambient heater, to top it off.. and his skinks are all doing great.

I prefer heating lamps, over UTH, just my preference.

[El Lobo]

I don't believe wild BTS' roam hundreds of square feet in a day, quite the contrary. All skinks, either wild or kept as pets are preoccupied with their own safety from predators and limit their exposure by moving shorter distances whilst maintaining as much cover as possible.

Blueys thermo-regulate by exposure to overhead light i.e. the sun. It is the most natural and efficient means available to them.

To the OP, I think Fatal_S may have some experience with radiant heaters. My opinion is that if you need to increase ambient temperatures this is a good way of doing so. A radiator has a much wider generated pattern of warmed air than a CHE due to its surface area and does not get too hot to touch, unlike a CHE. The terminology may have changed now to describe them as reptile radiators rather than heat panels.

An overhead heat lamp is the best option for a basking spot.

[Kurt]

Thanks for the responses. Guess I'll have to figure something else out.

Does anyone use a dimmer/thermostat on basking lights? I'm asking because my 40 watt bulbs aren't strong enough in the winter but my 45 watt bulbs keep the tank a little warmer than I'd like. That's why I was looking into these alternative heat sources that run through thermostats that keep temps consistent.

[jdheff1982]

Thanks for the responses. Guess I'll have to figure something else out.

Does anyone use a dimmer/thermostat on basking lights? I'm asking because my 40 watt bulbs aren't strong enough in the winter but my 45 watt bulbs keep the tank a little warmer than I'd like. That's why I was looking into these alternative heat sources that run through thermostats that keep temps consistent.

I would use a dimmer on light bulbs. The constant on/off would destroy the filament prematurely. Basically, thermostats are primarily used for UTH's and CHE's.; while, rheostats/dimmers are best suited for light bulbs (not florescent types).

[Richard.C]

I have thermostats on a few of my cages basking lights,i have them set up to switch off whem ambient cage temp gets high,not by basking temps though,more to prevent over heating during hot spells

I use the basic on off type and dont notice it shortening bulb life

Dimmers are ok if u have consistent ambient temps,otherwise u find u need to adjust it often as ambients change

[Bluish]

For basic ambient heat I heat my room and have a set-back thermostat to seasonally change the day/night temps. I use bulbs on a dimmer for each unit. That way i can dial in the temps i want. Some new pvc units i just bought have 11"(?) heat
tape on the bottom. Just started playing around with it but looks like a good option especially if you have fluffy substrate that will hold the heat a bit and give them a large warm zone that isn't confined to just the floor surface. I've never used RHP because of the cost. They are over $100 here and I'm not sure that they would radiate the heat down in one spot enough before heating the entire enclosure.
I like the bulbs in the summer but think in the winter the heat spot may be a little smaller than i would like. Remember dimmers can only be dialed back about half way. If turned back too much the lights may not come on in the morning.
Cord + socket + 50watt halogen bulb = $8.
Cord + 11" Heat tape = $15.
Radiant heat panel = $100-120.

[Jeff]

I have been using light bulbs on proportional thermostats for years with no issues at all. It works excellent for keeping a constant temperature at the spot where the thermostat's probe is. I don't think it is the ideal set up though, because the bulb is constantly adjusting to maintain the temperature that I set. I don't like seeing the bulbs dimm and brighten. The effect is minimized by adding a separate fluorescent bulb that stays on full power during the hours that it is set to be on.

The radiant heat panels are hard to use in most bluey size enclosures just because the size of them is usually too large. they would tend to heat up the whole cage instead of creating a temperature gradient. Of course if you enclosure is big enough, they should work fine. Even though CHE's are smaller in size, I have had the same issue with them. They project heat in every direction, so they tend to heat up a large area rather than a basking "spot" They work great, and last for years. Both of these devices are just better suited for applications where you want to increase the ambient temperature in a larger area.

Dimmers/reostats work great too, it's just that you really need to check your temperatures frequently because they won't automatically adjust when conditions change.

I think heat tape and heat cords both do a good job at what they are designed to do, but they work best for rack type set ups.

My all-time favorite heat source for BTS is the Megaray 60w heat projector. These are pretty much the perfect in my mind. They project ifrared heat straight down only, like a spot light. No heat is directed in any other direction. You can touch the sides of the projector while it is on, and it is barely warm while creating a hot spot below it. These give off no light at all, so while it is being regulated by a thermostat, you don't see any change in light. They also seem to last forever like the CHE's. The only downside is that they cost $20. Unfortuanately, due to the problems Megaray has had as a company, they stopped making these a few years ago. I have contacted them a couple times asking if they are going to make them again, but the response has been, "We have no plans to manufacter them at this time"
http://www.reptileuv.com/megaray-hp-60- ... jector.php

[Kurt]

Those heat projectors sound awesome! It's a shame they don't make them anymore, that's pretty much exactly what I'm looking for...

Proportional thermostats are definitely something I'm interested in getting. My ambient room temps change from season to season but not much throughout the day so I'm not sure if the change in light would be very noticeable.

[critterguy]

I've found that a hot spot without light works ok for my BTS. I use the ultratherm heat mats that bean farm sells. You can put them on a thermo/rheostat but they run pretty cool and I use them without one. Given a bit of air flow they will stay 10-20 degrees above ambient which gives a good temperature for most of the year here. As mentioned previously you can change the temperature of the hot spot by using different materials. I definitely see my BTS thermoregulating but it is not as conspicuous as basking. I try to put hides on both sides and they can warm up in total seclusion if they want.