Chlorhexidine 2% for Cleaning

[StaceyLeigh]

I found this product on amazon.com Chlorhexidine 2% solution,http://www.amazon.com/Chlorhexidine-2-for-Horses-Dogs/dp/B000HHNZVW/ref=pd_sim_k_4 The product says for Horses and Dogs, but it appears to be the same ingredient in Virosan. I know some people on here use this to clean. How much do you dilute it. This is a gallon so I figure it will last a very long time.

[Bird_Brain]

I would have to look at my jug, but I bought a pump for mine so it is so many pumps per spray bottle. I just cant remember. Im sure this isnt too helpful lol.

I purchased mine from www.reptilebasics.com and I HIGHLY recommend them. Very honest people with decent pricing. I have dealt with them on several reptile supplies and will always give them my business in the future.

[StaceyLeigh]

I did compare the reptilebasics products to this one I found on Amazon, it seems to be the same ingredient. I have other items to buy and prefer to shop 1 place rather than several. I do appreciate the recommendation.

[Bird_Brain]

I did compare the reptilebasics products to this one I found on Amazon, it seems to be the same ingredient. I have other items to buy and prefer to shop 1 place rather than several. I do appreciate the recommendation.

Understandable. I have nothing to gain by recommending them, just thought Id share. But I would recommend the pump. It makes it much easier to measure out.

[Spindown]

my vet actually recommends against this chemical and instead recommends f10. f10 kills much more than this one does.

[Katrina]

my vet actually recommends against this chemical and instead recommends f10. f10 kills much more than this one does.

Why does your vet recommend against this one? Is it just because F10 kills more or is there another reason?

This just reminds me of an interesting discussion a while back about sterilization - some were wondering how necessary sterilizing absolutely everything was. Blueys should have fairly good immune systems (of course they aren't exposed to much in captivity), but I guess it is just a different approach to cleaning. Some clean to sterilize and kill everything and others feel that soap and water is sufficient - as long as it won't harbor mold etc then it is probably fine. Obviously complete sterilization is necessary in some cases such as when getting rid of mites or parasites.

Sorry, that is a bit off topic!

[Bird_Brain]

I was thinking the same thing, Kat.

[StaceyLeigh]

I know this solution is recommended on the caresheet, so I assumed it was safe? I had also seen some others post that they had used this for their animals.

[Katrina]

I know this solution is recommended on the caresheet, so I assumed it was safe? I had also seen some others post that they had used this for their animals.

I didn't mean to imply unsafe - just wondering how necessary sterilization is or if a product would be 'better' just because it kills more. It is definitely a good product to use! Sorry, like I said - that was off topic.

[StaceyLeigh]

I see some on here just use soap and water, antibacterial soap & water, dish soap? I guess I was afraid that wasn't enough.

[Katrina]

I know that Lea always used just soap and water - I think it was her that first questioned whether complete sterilization is necessary.

I'm not sure what most people use. I do soap and water most of the time and about every 6-8 months I will scrub everything with a 5% bleach solution. But even for full cleanings in between I just use soap and water. If I have new additions or am switching furnishings from one bluey to another then I will bleach, but if I am just cleaning one's enclosure and returning everything then for the most part I use soap and water.

[Scotts1au]

My personal opinion is that 90% of the problems reported on this site with their blueys relate to poor husbandry. That is, not changing the bedding often enough, not washing the water bowl, using dirty dishes for feeding etc. Sterilising at cleaning won't make up for otherwise poor husbandry.

In many cases disease comes in with the animal, either from the wild or from it's previous keeper.

Clearly if you identify a problem like scale rot on an individual animal there is cause to sterilise but in most cases simply sticking to the basics is the key.

There should be no need to use anything other than warm water, except a surfactant will help to break down poo on walls. I also am happy to use household glass cleaner which works well to remove caked on poo. BUT I'm very cautious about using chemicals on water bowls. I now also only use disposal feeding containers with a considerable improvement in hygiene.

[Jeff]

My personal opinion is that 90% of the problems reported on this site with their blueys relate to poor husbandry...

In regards to CBB skinks, I agree. When it comes to WC animals though, this is only part of the problem. Just my opinion of course.

[Lea]

2% Chlorhex is actually safe to use directly on human ski , as a one off or prn requirement, but as a spray it has been linked to respiratory issues, even as a pump! It was actually removed from hospital shelves in the uk as a surface disinfectant, about 10 years back, due to it's corrosive action on our very hard wearing machinery!

I love it's use as an Intermittant antibacterial, but as with all chemicals- it is just that, a chemical. Remove skink from enclosure when cleaning or spraying and if they MUST be used to clean dishes, I advise a good soak I. Soapy water after, or a bake in a hot oven for 15 mins. In my personal opinion, replacing the dish each time (using lids from yoghurt pots/jars etc) can still be clean and cost effective. Hard wearing dishes, like child plates or even picnic plates, can also be easy and the paper ones can be recycled, too. Covering a dish with cling film before putting food on it allows you to just Peel off the film and rinse dish quickly.

[Lea]

Sorry, using iPhone e- really bad at typinnh on it.

[Scotts1au]

In many cases disease comes in with the animal, either from the wild or from it's previous keeper.

Was referring to both WC and previous poor keepers.

I use ceramic bowls for water - find they have deeper sides (not as easy for the animals to crawl through and poo in), they can't flip them and easy clean.

Oh yeah and don't use any specialty (value added "reptile" ) chemicals for my enclosures.

[StaceyLeigh]

Thanks for all the replies, very helpful to get different view points. I have been just using soap and water. I wash water bowl in the dishwasher, then rinse really well after. I use small saucers or mayo/peanut butter lids for food, again cleaned each time in the dishwasher and rinsed well after. Spot clean tank every day. I use this product for spot cleaning poo on glass http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.j ... Id=2753913 not sure it's doing anything other than making things smell nice?

[StaceyLeigh]

I just have 1 more question about cleaning tank assessories. I recently bought Thor a half-log hide, how do you clean that? I figured soap and water could make it warp or mold?

[Spindown]

he recommends it because it kills all viruses, and also kills things like crypto and much much more. They use it to sterilize the vets office stuff too. He said clorahexidine doesnt kill nearly the amount of nasties that f10 does, its been a while so i cant remember all the details, but my vet is Dr. Adolf Maas if you want to ask him questions about the details

also, f10 is totally safe for reptiles

[Katrina]

My personal opinion is that 90% of the problems reported on this site with their blueys relate to poor husbandry. That is, not changing the bedding often enough, not washing the water bowl, using dirty dishes for feeding etc. Sterilising at cleaning won't make up for otherwise poor husbandry.

I completely agree with this. Not just on this site, but anywhere - most problems with reptiles are due to poor husbandry, often due to lack of knowledge. And sterilizing completely once in a blue moon won't make up for not cleaning the rest of the time.

Sapphire - I see your vet's point, that kind of sterilization is especially important in an environment like a vet office where there are so many different animals coming through all the time. Especially with stuff like IBD around.

I guess any kind of safe for reptile chemical like F10 or Chlorhex is just fine to use, but the much more important part is keeping up with the cleaning in general and maintaining a standard of husbandry. I'm certain that anyone asking about cleaners etc is on top of this though!