Getting ready for a skink

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Jabba93
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Getting ready for a skink

Postby Jabba93 » Sun Nov 04, 2018 9:59 pm

Hey everyone!

I have NEVER owned a BTS before, but I have some basic understanding of reptile care. I currently have a Veiled Chameleon and a Leopard Gecko, but I am thinking about getting a skink. I’m looking at the Caresheet and the FAQ’s now, but what are some suggestions from you guys?

I live near Pensacola FL. Are there any local breeders in the area that are trustworthy?

What would be the best skink for a beginner with no experience in skink care?

Sorry if any of these are stupid questions, but I want to do all my research BEFORE getting the skink so I can take the best care of it.
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Susann
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Re: Getting ready for a skink

Postby Susann » Sun Nov 04, 2018 11:56 pm

If you read through the Caresheet and FAQ, you should be good on the basics, as well as set with the knowledge to know what all you need to set up before you get a skink while you look for a breeder of the type of BTS you think suits you best. An Australian Northern should be the easiest to get a hold of, they tend to be very hardy and tolerate different conditions, plus any you find for sale are for sure both bred and born in captivity (CBB) here in the US. Any cheaper variety you may find at pet stores or expos will most likely be from Indonesia/Papua New Guinea (most often either a Merauke or Indonesian). Almost all of them will either be just captive born (born here to a female recently imported) or outright a recent import.
You can check out our Species Specific Caresheet Additions for some idea on the differences on some of the species.
Once you figure out what may suit you best, check out our Recommended breeders list.
Do keep in mind that, although a lot of different species are produced and available in the US, many can carry hefty price tags, and even among the less pricey species, there can be differences in price dependent on a variety of factors. Generally classic Northerns are down toward the bottom of the CBB price list, followed by the 3 gigas species (Meraukes, Indonesians, and Kei Islands), then followed by the less commonly produced Australian species. If you can find a gigas species for less than a classic Northern, I would not believe any claims that the skink was produced by a breeder.

Keep in mind that BTS are only born once a year, so for a baby you will be waiting until late spring, early summer. Check our Classifieds for skinks for sale by previous owners, as you can sometimes find good deals there if you are willing to take on a grown or juvenile BTS.

Good luck, and happy researching to you!
Breeder and keeper of Meraukes from 2010 to 2022.
Jabba93
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Re: Getting ready for a skink

Postby Jabba93 » Wed Nov 14, 2018 2:45 pm

Thanks so much! The one concern I am still unsure about is brumation/hibernation. I am very unfamiliar with this, since the reptiles I own do not do this. I know that some recommend it while others say that inducing it too young can be dangerous and unhealthy. Do you have any tips about recognizing when a skink is going to brumate?


Also, how low maintenance are Australian Northern Skinks? We travel a lot during the summer, sometimes up to two weeks. Obviously, we will not leave any pet alone for that long, but how long can skinks take care of themselves before someone comes to check up on them?

Thanks for all the help so far!
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mb606587
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Re: Getting ready for a skink

Postby mb606587 » Wed Nov 14, 2018 3:49 pm

If you are uncomfortable with brumation, you don't necessarily have to induce it. People purposely brumate their skinks primarily for breeding purposes. Some Northern breeders have even successfully produced offspring without having to brumate their skinks at all. If you don't manipulate your temperatures and keep them consistent year round, your skink will likely not brumate. Also the fact that you're in Florida with warmer ambient temperatures will help prevent this. And Northern BTS are very low maintenance as far as reptiles and even other species of BTS go. That is why they are so popular. In theory, they can go weeks without being fed and with heat and lights on a timer. With that said, timers fail, heat lights burn out, and water bowls can get tipped over. So even though they are very low maintenance, I would still have somebody check on them at the very least, every other day.

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